Ionuț Butoi, Nu doar despre modă. Despre contributiile mai putin cunoscute ale lui Mircea Vulcănescu
Not just about fashion. Some considerations about the lesser known writings of Mircea Vulcănescu
Between July and October 1933 Mircea Vulcănescu held, under the pseudonym «Ivy», the fashion section on the economic weekly magazine, Index. Most of his 13 articles, representing all the contributions of „Ivy”, were dedicated to women’s fashion and were written in the first person feminine. In this study I will frame the context of these articles locating them among other concerns of Vulcănescu in the short historical term stated, I will try to explain the meaning of role play made by „Ivy”, linking it to the author’s attitude towards the role of women in society. I will also try to bring forward the possible origins of his interest in fashion and, of course, I will analyze the content of the articles written for Index, showing their philosophical and economic substrate. I will also make a link between Vulcănescu’s theoretical concerns about fashion and what the clothing style of the young interwar generation can say about their social condition. Through these articles we have the first ever sociological considerations on fashion made in Romania.
Keywords: modern Romanian culture, sociology of fashion, interwar sociology, Mircea Vulcănescu.
- Berdiaev, Nikolai, Sensul istoriei [The Meaning of History], Polirom, 2013
- Diaconu, Marin, Mircea Vulcănescu. Profil spiritual [Mircea Vulcănescu. Spiritual profile], Ed. Eminescu, 2001
- Constantino, Maria, Fashions of a Decade. The 1930s, Chelsea House Publishing, 2007
- Ionescu, Nae, Curs de istorie a metafizicei [History of Metaphysics Course], Editura Anastasia, 1996
- Pendergast, Sarah & Pendergast, Tom, Fashion, Costume, and Culture: Clothing, Headwear, Body Decorations, and Footwear through the Ages. Vol. 4: Modern World Part I: 1900-1945 , Thomson Gale, 2004
- Paulicelli, Eugenia, Fashion under Fascism. Beyond the Black Shirt, Berg Publishers, 2004
- Vulcănescu, Mircea, Opere I. Dimensiunea românească a existenței [Works I. The Romanian Dimension of Existence], Ed. Fundației Naționale pentru Știință și Artă, Ed. Univers Enciclopedic, 2005
- Vulcănescu, Mircea, Opere II. Chipuri spirituale. Prolegomene sociologice [Works II. Spiritual Faces. Sociological prolegomena] , Editura Fundației Naționale pentru Știință și Artă; Editura Univers Enciclopedic, 2005
- Vulcănescu, Mircea, Spre un nou medievalism economic. Scrieri economice [Towards a new economic medievalism. Economic writings], Ed. Compania, 2009
- Vulcănescu, Mărgărita Ioana, Memorii – Jurnal. Vol. I [Memoires – Journal. Vol I], Ed. Vitruviu, 2013
