Dincolo de un fenomen social: ia și valorificarea unui tipar identitar
Rezumat
Beyond a Social Phenomenon: The Ia and the Valorification of a Cultural Identity Pattern
Abstract: The paper aims to explain the concept of “identity” by drawing the intricate cultural and political history of an important piece of the Romanian peasant attire. Involved and instrumentalized within various political and cultural identity programs, traditional clothing was exhibited by ethnographers, anthropologists, cultural activists for a long time as an identity landmark meant to display racial differences, national stereotypes, and social hierarchies. The Romanian peasant attire was thus transformed from a community internal practical and symbolical object to an ethnic and then national identity tool. More recently, the national project of inscribing the traditional Romanian female blouse with embroidery on the shoulder on the UNESCO Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage is an opportunity for various stakeholders and promoters to reuse and commodify this clothing piece within their own cultural and commercial programs and to redefine and redesign the concept of “heritage community”.
Keywords: ethnic identity, heritage community, peasant attire, national costume, Romanian peasant, traditional Romanian women’s blouse with embroidery on the shoulder.
Citation suggestion: Hulubaș, Adina, and Repciuc, Ioana. “Dincolo de un fenomen social: ia și valorificarea unui tipar identitar” Transilvania, no. 5 (2022): 21-29. https://doi.org/10.51391/trva.2022.05.04.
Bibliografie
Atlasul lingvistic român pe regiuni [The Romanian Regions Linguistic Atlas]. Vol I-V. Bucharest: Editura Academiei Române, 1969-2011.
Barth, Frederick, ed. Ethnic Groups and Boundaries: The Social Organization of Culture Difference. Boston: Little, Brown, and Company, 1969.
Bănățeanu, Tancred. Portul popular românesc [The Romanian Traditional Clothing]. Bucharest: Editura Didactică și Pedagogică, 1965.
Bănățeanu, Tancred, Gheorghe Focșa, and Emilia Ionescu, ed. Arta populară în Republica Populară Română. Port, țesături, cusături [The Folk Art in The People’s Republic of Romania: Clothes, Weavings, Seams]. Bucharest: Editura de Stat pentru Literatură și Artă, 1957.
Bauman, Zygmunt. Liquid Modernity. Cambridge: Polity Press, 2000.
Bobu Florescu, Florea. “Geneza costumului popular românesc” [The Genesis of Romanian Folk Costume]. Studii și cercetări de istoria artei, no. 1 (1959): 19-47.
Bocșe, Maria. “Mutații contemporane privind funcțiile și semnificațiile portului popular transilvănean” [Contemporary Mutations of the Functions and Semnifications of the Folk Clothing from Transylvania]. Anuarul Muzeului Etnografic al Transilvaniei X (1978): 261-277.
Caraman, Petru. Restituiri etnologice [Ethnological Restitutions]. Iași: Editura Universității „Alexandru Ioan Cuza”, 2018.
Ciubotaru, I. H. Catolicii din Moldova. Universul culturii populare [The Catholics from Moldavia: The Universe of Folk Culture]. Vol. I. Iași: Presa Bună, 1998.
Comanici, Germina. “Aspecte contemporane în cercetarea portului popular” [Contemporary Aspects in the Research of Folk Clothing]. Revista de Etnografie și Folclor, no. 1 (1977): 101-111.
Durkheim, Émile, and Marcel Mauss. “De quelques formes primitives de classification. Contribution a l’étude des représentations collectives.” In Marcel Mauss, Oeuvres, vol. II, 13-89. Paris: Minuit, 1969.
Eriksen, Thomas Hylland. “Keeping the Recipe: Norwegian Folk Costumes and Cultural Capital.” Focaal – European Journal of Anthropology, no. 44 (2004): 20–34.
Graburn, Nelson. “Introduction: Arts of the Fourth World.” In Ethnic and tourist art, edited by N. Graburn, 1-32. Berkeley: University of California Press, 1976.
Heinich, Natalie. “Les émotions patrimoniales: De l’affect à l’axiologie.” Social Anthropology 20, no. 1 (2012): 19–33.
Hobsbawm, E. “Introduction.” In The invention of tradition, edited by E. Hobsbawm and T. Ranger, 1-14. Cambridge University Press, 1983.
Hobsbawm, Eric. Era extremelor. O istorie a secolului XX 1914-1991 [The Age of Extremes: The Short Twentieth Century, 1914–1991]. Chișinău, Cartier, 2015.
Iorga, Nicolae. “Portul popular românesc” [The Romanian Folk Clothing]. Neamul românesc literar V (1912): 491
Kwiecińska, Magdalena. “Cracow Traditional Dress in Urban Spaces”. In Folk Dress as a Cultural Phenomenon, edited by Anna Weronika Brzezińska and Mariola Tymochowicz, 143-149. Wrocław: Polish Ethnological Society, 2013.
Lipsitz, George. Time Passages: Collective Memory and American Popular Culture. Minneapolis: University of Minnesota Press, 2001.
Mihail, Zamfira. Terminologia portului popular românesc în perspectivă etnolingvistică comparată sud-est europeană [The Terminology of Romanian Folk Clothes in a South-Eastern European Comparative Ethno-Linguistic Perspective]. Bucharest: Editura Academiei, 1978.
Mihalache, Cătălina. Şcoala şi artizanatul: interpretări culte ale artei populare [The School and the Handicrafts: Educated Interpretations of Folk Art]. Cluj-Napoca: Limes, 2007.
Mihăilescu, Vintilă. Antropologie. Cinci introduceri [Anthropology: Five introductions]. Iași: Polirom, 2007.
Mișcoiu, Sergiu. Formarea națiunii. O teorie socio-constructivistă [The Nation Creation: A Socio-Constructivist Theory]. Cluj-Napoca: EFES, 2006.
Owens Jones, Michael. Craftsman of the Cumberlands: Tradition & Creativity. Lexington: The University Press of Kentucky, 1989.
Owens Jones, Michael. “Tradition in Identity Discourses and an Individual’s Symbolic Construction of Self.” Western Folklore, no. 2 (2000): 115-141.
Paic, Sebastian. “Netnographic Research and the Romanian Traditional Blouse «Iia»”. Revista de Etnografie și Folclor/ Journal of Ethnography and Folklore 1-2 (2019): 155-166.
Pamfile, Tudor. Industria casnică la români. Trecutul și starea ei de astăzi [Romanian Household Crafts. The Past and the Present Status]. Bucharest: Librăria Socec & Comp., 1910.
Popescu, Ioana. Foloasele privirii [The perks of looking]. Bucharest: Paideia, 2002.
Roche, Daniel. The Culture of Clothing: Dress and Fashion in the „Ancien Regime”, translated by Jean Birrell. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1994.
Secoșan, Elena, and Paul Petrescu. Portul popular de sărbătoare din România [The Festive Folk Clothing from Romania]. Bucharest: Meridiane, 1984.
Stahl, H. Henri. Eseuri critice despre cultura populară românească [Critical Essays on Romanian Folk Culture]. Bucharest: Minerva, 1983.
Stoian, Cătălin-Gabriel. “Călușul între vechile și necesarele abordări.” Orma 24 (2015): 237-261.
Tarlo, Emma. Clothing Matters: Dress and Identity in India. London: Hurst & Company, 1996.
Trevor-Roper, Hugh. “The Invention of Traditions: The Highland Tradition of Scotland.” In The Invention of Tradition, edited by Eric J. Hobsbawm and Terence O. Ranger, 15-42. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1983.
Thiesse, Anne-Marie. La création des identités nationales. Europe XVIIIe-XXe siècles. Paris: Seuil, 1999.
Urdea, Alexandra. From Storeroom to Stage: Romanian Attire and the Politics of Folklore. New York: Berghahn Books, 2018.
Văetiși, Șerban. Noile teorii etnografice și conceptul de descriere a culturii [The New ethnographic theories and the concept of culture description]. Cluj-Napoca: Editura Fundației pentru Studii Europene, 2008.
Vlad, Laurențiu. Imagini ale identității naționale. România și expozițiile universale de la Paris, 1867-1937. Bucharest: Meridiane, 2001.
Young, Jock. Exclusive Society: Social Exclusion, Crime, and Difference in Late Modernity. New York: Sage Publications, 1999.
