Aceasta nu este o haină de piele: Michel Foucault și schema „fashion thinking”. Pe marginea unui dialog cu designer-ul Ștefan Muscă
Rezumat
This is not a leather jacket: Michel Foucault in the scheme of “fashion thinking”
On the edge of a dialogue with designer Ștefan Muscă
The present text is the dialogic conclusion offered for the Romanian Fashion Philosophy Event (18-20 April 2019, Qreator by Iqos, Bucharest), resulting from a certain type of analysis and interpretation, by folding/applying the philosophy of Michel Foucault on the fashionable patterns of “fashion thinking”, and also from a very unusual way of laying down precisely articulated philosophical perspectives, from the laboratory of Romanian fashion itself, during conversation with designer Ștefan Muscă.
The statement this is not a leather jacket will work [here] in the same interpretive way of correspondence – ceci n’est pas une pipe, pleading in favour of a double set of arguments: the first is aimed at the present absence of the French philosopher in the/from finite fabrics of the domain of fashion thinking, by the process of (de)marking theoretical segments able to make us to believe both in a series of method (fashion) insinuations, while still fingerprinting them with the substance of ideas, the constituent-irrigators of the area; the second recovers the ability of re-signifying the location of the body in the structure of socio-institutional relevant contexts, Foucault’s views showcasing processes that underlie the system of fashion, able to provide the necessary tools for both image analysis and visibility, for the transfer of the insignia of clothing into the practice of the socio-politico-cultural. An appearance that is prevailing in the attempted placement of Michel Foucault inside a series of fashionable designers, consisting precisely in his recognition as philosophical trendsetter.
Keywords: „fashion thinking”, Michel Foucault, fashionable, dressing, clothing
Bibliografie
Barthes, Roland, The Fashion System, University of California Press, 1990;
Bălășescu, Alec, „Michel Foucault îl întâlnește pe Calvin Klein. Moda ca tehnică a guvernamentalității”, in Idea Artă + Societate, nr. 17, 2004, https://idea.ro/revista/index.php?q=ro/node/40&articol=209, accesat la 27 martie 2019;
Entwistle, Joanne, The Fashionable Body: Fashion, Dress and Social Theory, Polity Press, 2015;
Foucault, Michel, Hermeneutica subiectului: cursuri la College de France (1981-1982), Editura Polirom, Iași, 2004;
Foucault, Michel, This is not a Pipe, cu ilustraţii şi scrisori de Rene Magritte, tradus şi editat de James Harkness, University of California Press, 1982;
Lee, Christopher, „Dressing the Professor: What to Wear for Working in Academia”, in Gentleman’s Gazette, 8 august 2018, https://www.gentlemansgazette.com/dressing-the-professor/, accesat la 30 martie 2019;
Macey, David, Michel Foucault, Reaktion Books, 2004;
Macey, David, The Lives of Michel Foucault, Verso, 2019;
Matteucci, Giovanni, Stefano Marino, Philosophical Perspectives on Fashion, Bloomsbury Academic, 2016;
Miller, James, The Passion of Michel Foucault, Simon & Schuster, 1993;
Nixon, Natalie W. & Johanna Blakley, „Fashion Thinking: Towards an Actionable Methodology”, in Fashion Practice, 4:2, 2012;
Petersen, Trine Brun, Maria Mackinney-Valentin & Marie Riegels Melchior, „Fashion Thinking”, in Fashion Practice, 8:1, 2016;
Smith, Lori, „Fashion Theory: Foucault and Discourse”, in Rarely Wears Lipstick, 22 noiembrie 2012, http://www.rarelywearslipstick.com/2012/11/fashion-theory-foucault-and-discourse/, accesat la 27 martie 2019;
Taylor, Dianna (eds.), Michel Foucault. Key Concepts, Acumen, 2011;
Tynan, Jane, „Michel Foucault: Fashioning the Body Politics”, Chapter 11, in Agnès Rocamora, Anneke Smelik (eds.), Thinking Through Fashion: A Guide to Key Theorists, I.B. Tauris, 2015.
